Ask any woman of the Winter or Spring seasonal pallets, and she will tell you, if she could only grab one cosmetic for her survival pack, it would be her lipstick. Of course if she is a Natural or Gamin Img.ID, she would prefer to use the space for something more practical, but I’m just saying we women have certain needs, and sometimes they are as simple as a lip gloss!

It is often said that they eyes are the window of our soul. For this very reason, the focus of every makeover should be the eyes. For women with strong, clear contrasting colors in their hair, skin and eyes attention is drawn to the eyes when color is applied to the lips, making their whole appearance more radiant and alive.

This is why lip color is essential in some survival kits.

Whether lip color is vital to you or not, be sure to make your choices according to your color chemistry, or you will feel as if you are “all lips.” Also, allow the color to set a few minutes before deciding if you like it or not.

Common questions answered:

• Yes, Lip color is usually the last step for a makeover. And no, we have not yet discussed eye liner, eye shadow, or loose powder; but some Img.IDs do not do well to wear eye liner and/or shadow, so I am addressing the lips first, since this is their final step, at least for everyday makeup.
• Lip liner is a great look on the Dramatic and the Gamin, but may be a bit too strong for other Img.IDs, unless the liner color is very close to the lipstick color. Liner is a great tool to create illusion of a fuller, or thinner lip simply by lining the outside or inside of the lip (respectively)
• Your lip color will last longer if when you apply your liquid foundation you also cover your lips. Also using a quality product makes a difference in it’s lasting power.
• One final point: Lipstick is made of oils that do expire and go rancid after some time; if your lipstick has a funny aroma, and tastes a bit off, it is time to discard it.

One of the most common mistakes women make when applying their blush is in placement. Your blush should be applied according to your facial shape; it is meant to accentuate your cheekbones more than it is to bring color to your face. Out of a desire for rosy cheeks, your tendency may be to apply the color to the balls of your cheek, but this tends to achieve only the look of a plump face, whereas if you apply it under your cheekbones as a shadowing effect, you will accentuate your bone structure, which is most often more flattering.

Some important advice:

• Choose a blush color within your seasonal pallet. If your hair, skin and eyes have cool undertones and you choose a warm color (with any of your makeup) you will struggle to make it blend or look natural.
• Always use quality makeup brushes, as this will enhance the quality of your makeup application.  Your blush brush should be soft and rounded, so that the effect it brings is subtle.
• After filling your blush brush with the powder, tap the excess off before placing the brush under your cheekbone (if you are using a cream blush, be sure to use a makeup sponge). First place it where you want the most color, which is in the hollow of your cheek, directly under your eye, then bring your brush back toward your hairline. The further you place your blush from the center of your face, or the more horizontal of a line you brush toward your ear, the wider your face will appear. You can use this to your advantage to create balance. In general, if you have a:
  • Oblong face, apply blush horizontally, creating the illusion of width.
  • Square face, apply blush at a slight angle upward.
  • Diamond-shaped face, apply at a steep angle upward (also, wear light color eye shadows).
  • Round face, apply at a strong angle upward (and accentuate the eyes – we will be talking about this in a few weeks).
  • Heart-shaped face, apply slightly horizontally, also, apply blush some at the temples.
  • Triangular-shaped face, apply at a strong angle, also apply some blush to the neck, under your earlobes.
  • Oval face, follow your cheekbone creating a shadowing effect.

My final blush (& eye makeup) tip I will elaborate on in four weeks, but for now: do not worry about the obvious line you just created, resist the urge to smudge it with your fingers, I will share with you a far better trick of the trade that will make your makeup appear natural and stunning, so that you can soar with Confident Beauty everyday.

Talk with you next Tuesday!

The next step, after skin care, in a good makeover is to create an even toned canvas. This is done with foundational makeup.

When choosing your foundation there are four things to consider:

1. Moisture: foundations come in many types and weights. Choose one that works well with your skin type. If you have oily skin, you do not want a cream foundation that has a lot of moisturizing in it; if your skin is dry, you may want to avoid a powder foundation, unless it is over a liquid.
2. Coverage: If you have fairly even and blemish free skin, you may find a light liquid, sheer tint, or powder foundation to be enough coverage.
3. Undertone: knowing your seasonal pallet is a huge help here. If you have cool undertones in your skin, you will not be able to get a warm undertoned foundation to blend well (or visa versa) If you are unsure of which you are, choose a neutral based color.
4. Depth of color: Your foundations should match your skin color. Pick a color that seems to match the back of your hand, test a small amount of the colors you are considering to your jaw line, the one that blends completely (disappears) is the correct color for you.

A couple additional tips:

• Always use a makeup sponge or large brush (for powder foundation)
• Apply small amount to cheeks, forehead, chin; blend down and out.
• Blend into neck and decollate with makeup that remains on the sponge.
• Allow to dry before applying other products.